Elizabethan hair practice 3

Elizabethan hair 

These images demonstrate another Elizabethans style, my inspiration for this task was taken from the portraits on Elizabeth and other research from the Elizabethans era. Instead of using grips to keep the hair neatly in this position I tied the ends into a small bun, I liked the outcome of this look and I will keep referring back to this style when thinking about a contemporary version.

I curled the back of the hair using curling tongs, then once they had cooled I tied that into a bun to keep with the Elizabethan style. I found it difficult to find a style that is different to some of the original designs; plaits and buns, I wanted to make something a bit more contemporary but keep to the style of Elizabeth. Her hair is very curly, so I decided to curl the hair and clip it up in a bun form.  

Elizabethan society

Elizabethan society

The hierarchy in the Elizabethan era was very important and the class of each member of society knew where they stood. A change in the class or society of a member was unheard of, the hierarchy is here as follows; at the top is the church, then there is the monarch; Queen Elizabeth I, after the Queen there is the noble people, then the knights and vassals, second to the bottom are the merchants, craftsmen and farmers, at the very bottom of the hierarchy are the peasants and serfs.

The society of each person was generally known of by the appearance of each person; the peasants would wear very practical clothing for working in, never cleaned and would go unnoticed, the higher up the hierarchy we go the better dressed and presented the people become. The Queen, known for her high fashion and elaborate designs would be very well dressed, and presented in bright colours and many jewels and pendants that symbolise her wealth and power. 

The fashion I will be studying is taken form Queen Elizabeth I, her style, her hair, her cosmetics and her clothing where highly important for her image. Seeing the Queen in anything other than her well dressed figure would put a mark on her position and put a doubt on her power, her image was everything. 

Decorated dresses, bright colours, pearls, pendants, ruff's, cosmetics, wigs, hair dye and highly elaborate patterns where worn and used by the noble people, people of high class and royalty. I will be looking into this style for my project and I will create a contemporary look inspired by the hair and makeup of people from this era, especially Elizabeth. 

  

The peasant dance, www.ibiblio.com, 1568, oil on oak panel, Kunsthistorisches museum, vienna WebMuseum: Bruegel, Pieter the Elder, viewed 21.10.15, (digital image)

This portrait shows a peasant dance, this could be an interpretation into what the peasants would have worn, their clothes are very practical and very plain and natural colours, no dye would have been used to make the clothes look any different as it was expensive. The clothes of the merchants and farmers would have been very similar, workers clothes would have been practical and respectful.  

Larkin, William (1580c.-1619) - Portrait of a Nobleman, Said to be Robert, Earl of Essex (Private Collection) viewed 21.10.15 (digital image) www.pinterst.com

This is a porter of nobleman, the clothes he wears are more elaborate and expensive compared to the peasants and people beneath him. 

The Armada Portrait, history.parkfieldict.co.uk viewed 19.10.15, (digital image)

Here we see Elizabeth I wearing very elaborate clothing, her dress is covered in bows, ribbons, pearls and fine jewels. She has a large ruff and her hair pulled back from her face, this reveals a large forehead, in those times was considered beautiful and clever. Her cosmetics are very layered and her skin is very pale, this symbolises her class because working people would be outside, getting a tan; royalty would be indoors, very pale. The symbolism in this portrait shows her power, wealth, loyalty and nobility, none of what she is wearing is practical or probably comfortable, but portrays her image which is very important.

This is the style of fashion, makeup and hair I will be studying, worn by the royalty and noblemen. 

Elizabethan hair style using real model

Elizabethan hair style 1

Elizabethan style hair on model: Natalie 

What I used :

• straighteners 
• curling tongs
• crimping tongs
• backcombing effect
• two brushes 
• fine tooth comb
• many grips and other styling clips 

This is the beginning of my styling practical with model; Natalie. In the past I have been working on my Kate doll, this is my first practical with a real person. Using my doll head means I can be less careful with the heating products and the brushing, using a real model for the first time was strange but exciting, I had the chance to work on a real person with longer hair, this meant I was able to create a more elaborate design, but it also took longer because I was being more careful about the brushing, carefully placing clips and not using the heat styling products too close to the scalp. 

In this first picture I have already parted the hair and sectioned off four parts at the front; two I will crimp and two I will use the straighteners and clips to rick rack. I have already crimped and brushed through he two sections at the front and I am now backcombing them to make the hair even fuller. Luckily, Natalie had very thick hair that crimped easily and grew twice in size once brushed out, this helped me because I was trying to achieve two very big oval shapes at the front of the hairstyle. I have left the two sections in front of this to rick rack later.    

This is the hair backcombed and looking very full, the straight sections at the front will be curled and rick racked later when the look is almost finished. I was pleased with the amount the hair grew and used this to my advantage, the backcombing helped with the size, next time I will make sure the middle parting is exactly right, I felt it was too much over to the left, which I didn't notice until the design was almost finished. 

In this picture the hair is clipped back into a love heart position. I was pleased with the fullness of the hair, and even though the front sections look pretty down as they are I still decided to curl or rick rack them so they would fit in with the Elizabethan style of hair. Again in this picture I notice the parting isn't central, this is something I will have to work on to perfect if I decide to use this look for my final choice. 

This is the back of the design, I created a twisted bun using the excess hair, before striating the bun I separated a small section of hair underneath to twist around the bun once finished. This would give the bun a bit more of an Elizabethan theme, as plaits were used during this era, but also hide any wispy bits of hair coming from the bun. 

This is the finished bun placed at the back of the hair, I twisted the plait around the bun and clipped it into place. Next time, when practicing this style I will do a much bigger plait so it is more visible and becomes a technical part of the style. 

This is the left side of the heart shaped hair, I was very pleased with the outcome of this, it was very neat and was the right shape. I also liked the colour difference; lighter at the back and darker at the front, I will think about using colour in my final design, I love the use of gold as it reminds me of royalty and is used in many of the portraits of Elizabeth to portray her wealth. 

After I had rick racked the front section of the hair style, I then, without separating them too much, pulled and pinned them to the back of the heart shaped section. This added a slight contemporary look to my design but also reminded me of the curly hair in the portraits of Elizabeth.  

Some of the hair I used to rick rack turned out more curly than others, if I use this technique in my final design I will have to practice to make each one even. 

On the right side of the hairstyle I used curling tongs to make soft curls with the remaining hair at the front section. I liked this idea sn the finished look, I think it added a contemporary finish to the style and was a subtle but pretty addition.  

This was the finished design from the from, in pictures I can see where I need to improve; the symmetry of the design is off, I need to make sue I make a centre parting before starting the rest of the design, this will ensure the same amount of hair on each side go the head and make it easier for me to create the wanted look. Because the parting was off to the right, there was less hair on the right side, this meant more backcombing, I was most please with theft side as it looks fuller and thicker. 

I then undone one of the rick racked pieces of hair and let it fall, I brushed my hands through it to give it more volume. Some of the portraits of Elizabeth as a young woman show her with some of her hair down, this style reminded me of that as only small seconds of the hair fall down the side of the face. 

Inspiring Designs; Contemporary

Inspiring Designs

This image shows a model wearing a creation from the winter 2007-2008 collection by Russian designer Valentin Yudashkin in Moscow, July 9, 2007. The collection was inspired by 16th century fashion and the photo was taken by Sergei Karpukhin. 

I have chosen this image as one that has inspired me because the design of the hair is in the shape an material of a ruff used for fashion in the 16th century. The artist has also removed the eyebrows from the models face, this also gives em the impression of an Elizabethan styled look. 

This is Beyonce as 'Queen Bee' after her tour Mrs Carter World Programme, form www.rhymeswithsnitch.com

I admire this look of Beyonce, the artist has completely whitened her skin and hair, this is to give the impression of a 16th century design, the makeup and fashion also link with the extravagant ideals from Queen Elizabeth. I think this design is a good example of a contemporary look inspired by Elizabeth I; it shows a good understanding of the use of pale colours and white as the skin was coloured in the 16th century to be very pale and give the impression of wealth and royalty. Her hair is very big and piled neatly on her head as like the portrait of Elizabeth.  

Fashion styling on pinterest.com, Tyra Banks Elizabethan period 

This image reminded me of the Queen from Alice in Wonderland; there is a good use of the colour red, which influences the idea of royalty and power. The model, although has a modern style of makeup, has a subtle look that is in keeping with the theme of red and royalty. The hair of the model is done to influence the idea of Queen Elizabeth, the strong colour of natural red and the curls remind me of the more earlier portraits of the Queen. 

Picture form her.hair.deviantart.com French rococo style hair art, Josefine Jonsson photo and retouch josefinejonsson.com This design reminds me of an Elizabethan style hair design with the curls and neat undo. 

I have chosen to look at this image because the hair, although subtle, is curled and mostly up in a bun, this reminds me of the contemporary looks of 16th century hair I have been looking at. I like this look as a whole; the makeup is done well to compliment the Elizabethan look, faded eye brows and pink lips, with a pale face. 

http://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portraitConservation/mw02070/Queen-Elizabeth-I, viewed 24.11.15, (digital image)

This portrait of Elizabeth on her coronation day, shows her with her hair down, this is to symbolise her youth, virginity and purity. This style is used in contemporary looks to create the innocent image inspired by Elizabethan looks. 

Lady Gaga, Royalty variety performance goes 'gaga' www.dailymail.co.uk/royaleffort

This image of lady gaga is a good representation of contemporary Elizabethan; her fashion and dramatic red eyes is what attracted me to the image at first, she is wearing a ruff to give the impression of royalty and status based on the looks from Queen Elizabeth, and her eyes give me the impression of power and glamour, also a love from Elizabeth; she would always be finding new materials for fashion and makeup to symbolise her power and wealth. Although her hair is loose and falls down her shoulders, this reminds me of the earlier portraits of Elizabeth, before she became Queen, showing her innocence and purity. The colour of this yellow hair on Lady Gaga also influences the look, because many women would have dyed their hair yellow and red to be like the Queen.  

Visa gismo on pinterst/gothic on pinterst fantasy makeup londonwarrior.tumblr.com

I chose to look at this image because it has inspired me to think about other ways in which to create an Elizabethan look. The hair and makeup in this design was initially taken from the fashion and style of the Queen Elizabeth I, but has taken a dark turn. The hair is more red then the natural ginger of Elizabeth and the makeup is very extravagant and precise. Elizabeth would have worn black as a fashion statement; it was very expensive to make and symbolised wealth as only her and other royals would have been able to afford it.

http://alanwalkerart.com/paintings/?p=943, viewed 24.11.15, (digital image)

This portrait of Elizabeth I shows her wearing black, a very expensive colour to make, she would have had many dresses made in this colour to show off her wealth and power. 

http://noirfacade.livejournal.com/343968.html?page=1, viewed 24.11.15, (digital image)                          

This image stood out to me amongst others because, the artist when choosing a model chose Lily Cole to influence the idea of Elizabethan looks as her face in soft and small, much like the images of portraits from that era. Her makeup is very extreme like the practices of Queen Elizabeth and her portrays the style and size used by the people and Elizabeth of the 16th century. I like the technique of curling instead of crimping or rick rack, because I like the soft finish, I will incorporate this into my final idea plans.   

Beyonce, 11814442-f320.jpg crystalgordon.hubpages.comelizabethan-oid 'coolness from Beyonce

This image of Beyonce is another inspirational look of hers to influence her image in a similar way to Queen Elizabeth. The artist has copied Elizabeths style to create a contemporary look; big hair that involves crimping and rick racking, a large ruff styled piece to go around her head influence by the fashion of the 16th century and a very embellished dress, she also wears a crown. 

http://www.extremecostuming.com/articles/twoelizabethanhairstyles.html, information website. 

Shaping and frizzing and using padding

Shaping and frizzing

Using padding to shape the hair:

The is the type of padding I will create for the structure of my hair design, I will make this by cutting up a hair doughnut and placing it in a pair of tights. This way I can create my desired look by holding the product and shaping it to fit in the hair. I will also use a model doughnut that is the same or a similar colour to the hair of the model I will be using, this will then make the finished design better quality as the padding all be less visible. 

Padding Blonde Cone :: Hair Padding :: Professional Haircare, www.directhairandbeauty.com.au, http://www.directhairandbeauty.com.au/shop/Art-Of-Hair-Padding-Blonde-Cone.html, viewed 05.11.15, (digital image)

Pin by Hair Romance on Crazy Hair Romance | Pinterest, https://www.pinterest.com/pin/180847741256605970, http://www.hji.co.uk/hairstyle-gallery/2012-blonde-rolled-hairstyle, viewed 05.11.15, (digital image)

For this I have used:

• padding-rat
• brush
• pin tail comb
• grips to hold weight 
• straightening iron 
• crimping iron

This image is form 2012, it is a blonde rolled hairstyle, prepped with shine serum then smoothly blow-dried with a paddle brush to achieve a straight, smooth finish. Once dried the hair was wrapped around padding to create an exaggerated rolled shape. Hairstyle by Sharon Malcolm, Picture by John Rawson Salon: Sharon Malcolm Hairdressing. http://www.hji.co.uk/hairstyle-gallery/2012-blonde-rolled-hairstyle

This image shows a model with hair that has been styled using padding, it was very well done because the padding isn't visible and makes the hair look unique, full and thick. This effect can be made even if the model has thin or shower hair because the use of padding will enhance the size and shape and make the hair appear bigger.  

2012 blonde rolled hairstyle Long blonde hair was prepped with shine serum then smoothly blow-dried with a padle brush to achieve a straight, smooth finish. Once dry, hair was wrapped around padding to create an exaggerated rolled shape. Hairstyle by: Sharon Malcolm Hairstyle picture by: John Rawson Salon: Sharon Malcolm Hairdressing

   

To begin my design I shaped the hair on my Kate doll, it was already crimped which gave the hair volume, I parted it in the middle and separated the two front pieces to create a love heart shape.  

This technique is done by frizzing the hair using straighteners, also called rick rack, the hair divided into small sections and wrapped around a metal hair clip in a figure of eight. I then secured the hair in position and heated it using the straighteners.   

Once the hair is cooled, individually I undone each hair clip and let it fall, I then pulled each one back separately behind the already shaped hair. I liked this idea but to make it contemporary I let two pieces fall at the sides, I separated the curls out to create a frizz. 

I let the frizzed hair down on one side to create a more contemporary look, I then neatened the love heart shaped hair using a comb. 

Many women in the 16th century used padding in their hair to create larger looks that were piled on top of their heads, this look was inspired by the fashion conscious Queen Elizabeth I. The padding used was made from hair similar or exact in colour to the hair of the wearer, and was called a 'rat,' this is because the shape was very similar to the shape of a real rat. Most women would follow the trends of Elizabeth I and would dye their hair red, the dyes used were poisonous and would cause the hair to fall out or become very thin; wigs then became popular and more padding was used to create the looks similar to the Queen. 

http://www.broadsheet.ie/2012/06/28/queen-elizabeth-i-student-of-irish, viewed 24.11.15, (digital image)

This image shows Queen Elizabeth I with big hair, although this piece of hair way have been a wig, she was known to have large curly hair that stood on her head. Many poorer people who wanted the same effect would not have been able to afford wigs, padding was much cheaper and easier to get the same effect. The curls of Elizabeths hair was very well known and she would always have very tight curls involved in her hair do. This effect can be made in a few ways contemporary; frizzing also known as rick racking, and crimping, in this particular lesson I learned how to rick rack, it is more time consuming but creates a tight curl in the hair that can be frizzed out by brushing. This effect can look neater than just using crimping tools.  

Crimping and example

Crimping 

Crimped hair on pinterest:https://www.pinterest.com/kateryan/crimped-hair/, http://www.layoutaday.com/use-your-tools-crimper-love, viewed 05.11.15, (digital image)

Theses an example of ripped hair I have found on the internet, I chose this particular image because it illustrates a good example of the type of hair I will be practicing. The design is a good size and is the effect that I will aim to create. 

Updos on Pinterest | Victory Rolls, Updo and Brown Hairstyles, http://ashleyrosebubbles.buzznet.com/user/journal/7580501/dying-some-massive-hair, viewed 05.11.15, (digital image)

For this I have used:

• Crimping iron
• pin tail comb
• brush
• backcombing technique 
• small grips to hold the weight of the hair 
• fine tooth comb

This image is of a model wearing a crimped up do, I chose to look at this image because this is the style of hair I will be focusing on when planning my final design. I want to practice different up do's for crimped hair to come up with a mixture of design that I can choose from. I like this style of hair because it is a good illustration of what a contemporary style of Elizabethan hair would be. 

I practiced crimping on my 'Kate" doll and then experimented two ways of getting the high behave design from Elizabeth I. I divided the hair into two, and crimped both sides. Once crimped and cooled I brushed out the hair and it created a more volume to the hair; it looked frizzy but neat, like an afro.

These images show the hair crimped on both sides, and a close up of the crimping before I had brushed it out. 

This image shows the hair backcombed and placed in a hill position on top of the head, if done on both sides of the head it will create a love heart shape similar in shape to Elizabethan style hair.

This image below shows the second way to get the same effect, for this I used a prop or 'rat' that I rolled up in the hair, for my final design I will make a 'rat' to fit the model as the one I used was too long and I couldn't get the desired shape. 

These images show the size difference from using a prop and simply backcombing.

The second way to use the prop is to section off the hair and do a small french plait where the prop will sit, I then secured the prop to the plait and wrapped the hair around it, this made a more secure and neater finish. I prefer using the prop to simply relying on backcombing although backcombing makes a larger mound.  

I didn't crimp all the way to the scalp line, this is something I will have to improve on in my practice and final design to get a better finish. 

http://gutenberg.net.au/ebooks13/1301691h.html, viewed 24.11.15, (digital image)

This image shows Elizabeth I seemingly wearing a wig, but this hair would have been accomplished using some type of crimping iron, to make small tight crimped curls.